Before I commence, know that Dave and I are both in the Native Bee business. It is in its infancy, but we are making great strides. We are also part of an organization that is trying to better implement the use of Orchard Bees for pollination efforts.

From my observation, many native beekeepers differ in their opinions of what works, and what does not. The fact is, there are “what is known presently to work sufficiently” and “what might work better in the future.” Climactic differences, the pollination needs you have, and bee propagation volume—in my opinion—call for native bee nesting environments that starkly differ. That being said, I suggest you experiment with a variety of different options each year. Eventually, you will prefer one of a few options that best meet your needs. Always keep an open mind when dealing with native bees, but document the successes.

Wood trays certainly yield good results, but these trays also have weaknesses. I disagree with Dave that reeds “are most preferred by the bees,” simply because “it’s very easy to find their hole.” I have experimented with a slew of different nesting types, two of which have exceeded the reeds’ performance.

Dave would agree that I’m slow to make my prototypes available for sale, but they will come about soon enough for you to test and compare. In the interim, I suggest you become your own scientist!

We’re here to help you. Glad you’re raising these bees!

My tree is about twelve years old and is over twenty feet tall and wide. I am now to the point of cutting off several two to four inch thick branches, some ten feet long to keep it from attacking the house and blocking a driveway. Despite having the symptoms of ill health (dripping sap, holes in leaves, some dead leaves) it shoots out several five to eight foot branches all over during the summer. I am researching and contemplating removing a major limb from at the main trunk, as the weight seems be causing the tree to tilt (and could cause the trunk to split).

I was searching on apricot diseases and size, and I had to laugh when I read its mature height was only fifteen feet. Perhaps it is the micro-climate between a concrete pad, driveway and rockery that holds in warmth.

It does produce fruit, but the last few years they have been sparse because the wet springs kept the pollinators away. I plan to just hand pollinating the low hanging blossoms next year. This is what I do with my indoor hot pepper plants.

I used to belong to the Seattle Tree Fruit Society, but other things have decided to suck away my time (hence my garden therapy). Looking at your next couple of posts i should tell you my front fence consists of four espaliered apple trees and one four-in-one pear tree. I don’t do “evidence based” as much as “that looks interesting” gardening. I live near both the Center of Urban Horticulture and the Medicinal Herb Garden (they are growing teosinte, the ancestor of corn!). Right now my goal is to keep pepper plants in the house for a year before putting them in the yard. I have learned that their stems get woody, and aphids are evil when they get into a house.

Nice post, and good luck with the Osmia californica.

From my experience, paper straws are not necessarily the best option—I would say they are one of the poorest options. Paper straws have their advantages, but I have noticed Osmia lignaria generally prefer to nest in more solid and protected living environments, where their offspring is safe from predatorial creatures or weather that can compromise thin walls. They also have an interesting ability to differentiate between a poor nesting site and a suitable nesting site, and are likely to select the latter for their offspring. In a nutshell, they are good realtors—who also happen to be pregnant mothers—and desire to prolong their posterity.

I would very much like your feedback about mason bee ownership. I have a survey link at research.nativebees.com